The Greatest End........But I Nearly Threw In The Towel
I first visited Great End in 2022. A splendid mountain and one I have fallen deeply in love with since our first equaintence.....love at first sight you could say. As the name suggests, majestically perched on the end of the Scafell Massif, the highest mountains in England, Great End is a magnificent fell and fine view point. Indeed, a view that never fails to captivate me. My first visit was a relative success, however I believe you don't always get the best of a location on the first visit, so a return was always on the cards. Over the course of the last 3 years I've been on multiple occasions and each time ending in frustration and failure. It wouldn't be so bad usually, however getting to Great End from any of the various routes up is a long long slog. So there is plenty of time and effort involved for each visit. In all honesty its no hardship as its a wonderful hike and one I enjoy very much. So back in March I set off again, full of hope and anticipation and ready to finally get the image I'd envisaged for years.
Borrowdale Dampled Light Panorama from Esk Hause
To this date we had had a pretty spectacular winter, with the most snow fall I'd ever witnessed on the fells. The snow had since departed but the frozen remains where still clinging on to the bleak and barren landscape. I parked at Langdale Old Dungeon Ghyll, the weather was sunny with a little bit of cloud. I made the 2 mile long trudge through the Mickleden Valley before hitting the lung busting ascent of Rossett Ghyll. Once you have navigated this you drop down to Angle Tarn before climbing up gradually to Esk Hause, a wonderful intersection where many pathways meet and take hikers off to there chosen routes and destinations. Its at this point that the views really start to open up and I was treated to some bursts of gorgeous winter dappled light as it danced across the bleak landscape. So I fired off a few frames taking advantage of the fleeting light. It was deliciously moody and I was hopeful, when I got to Great End, that conditions would be in my favour. Onwards I went, filled with optimism.
The Langdale Pikes - Looking down the route I follows from Langdale.
Approaching Mood - The Hail Storm creeping up the Borrowdale Valley.
It is a short walk from Esk Hause up to Great End. The summit is a large flat area, so you need to drop off to the sides to get the better views. The views to the West into Wasdale and Northward over Borrowdale in particular are splendid. Arriving at the summit I made a be line to a little collection of rocks I'd found on my first visit. I was greeted with some wonderful mood and light but also the impending dread that the weather was closing in and I was going to potential get hit. Again I rattled of a few shots I was pleased with and then decided to head off to the Western edge of the fell as the view in front of me was rapidly disappearing. It was only matter of time before the view was swallowed up, so I hastily got into a position to capture some sensational light through the Wasdale Valley with the clouds and rain moving in rapidly. Moments later, boom, the biggest hail storm hit me and it was high winds and white out conditions. This probably last for a good half an hour before it eased.
When love and hate collide - Glorious breaking light battling against the incoming storm over Wasdale.
After the storm had passed through I made my way back to my original composition, set up and waited. Well by this point the clag had set in and it looked like I was going to be clouded out. I stood for a good hour, in position, watching the cloud come and go revealing snippets of the landscape..but critically no light. With about 15 minutes until sunset, tired and cold I decided to pack up and make the 5 mile trek back to the car. So I started to head up when I turned around for one last time and noticed a warm glow through the cloud. 'Bloomin Heck' I thought, slipping and sliding down the mountain side to get set up. Well the cloud was starting to shift and thin out and the breaking light was an intense orange colour. Hopefully the cloud could lift a little further. Well it did indeed and it seemed like all the elements aligned at the right time. I've not seen light, mood and atmosphere like it for a very long time. It was a sight to behold and one I will never forget. We rarely get conditions like this and when we do the highs are off the scale.
The Greatest Reveal - The wait was worth it with the intense light washing over the fells and breaking through the clouds.
Once the intense light started to wain I was treated to a gorgeous colourfully and atmospheric sunset. It was the gift that just kept giving. As quick as it came it then went and I was left drained, tired, a little emotional and thoroughly roughed up by the weather gods......but with the biggest grin you have ever seen on my face. I packed up and headed for home, the smile didn't leave my face for the whole of the 5 miles back to the car. My only worry was that I could do the conditions justice with my images. It really goes to show that even when all seems lost that nature can still give you that magic moment in a flash, so we have to be patient and wait it out. Yes it can be hard going and uncomfortable but thats the play off and I would have kicked myself for the rest of my days if I had left. So its a lesson for all and a reminder to me that you should always wait as you never ever know. It truly was the Greatest End and one I will take with me for ever. Its days like this we live for.
The Greatest End - An unbelievable sunset over Borrowdale, the perfect end to an epic adventure.
Tim